Lake Garda is studded with villages that have beautifully preserved their pristine medieval appearance, making you wonder ‘is this all real?’. The answer is yes, it’s all real. There is no artificial reconstruction for tourists, but a historical and artistic heritage that exudes a fairy-tale atmosphere. Many villages on Lake Garda and inland are guarded by fabulous castles. Explore them all: visit the halls, walk the castle ramparts, admire the stunning views, and then thread your way through the narrow streets of the villages. These are our recommendations.
Sirmione, a favourite of celebrities throughout the ages
Visit Sirmione for enchanting experience. Even today, the only way to enter (admission is free, no ticket) is to cross the Scaliger Castle drawbridge, the village reveals itself in breath-taking loveliness just beyond the walls. If you're short on time and particularly if the day is clear, go straight up to the ramparts and admire the commanding view over the entire lake. Then hit the main road that takes you around the entire peninsula covered in olive trees, palms and bougainvillea, which have enamoured the rich and famous throughout the ages, from the Roman poet Catullus to Maria Callas. Go as far as the Grottoes of Catullus, the enormous Roman Villa that was the poet’s holiday home. It is easy to see why: the archaeological remains are sited in the most stunning, scenic location. At the tip of the Sirmione peninsula is a wonderful slab of white stone covered by water, which, at the point just below the Grottoes of Catullus, has the colours of a tropical beach. Go for a swim at Jamaica Beach: seeing is believing. The quality of eateries within the historic centre of Sirmione is somewhat average, we can, however, recommend two outside the walls: Dippa - artisanal gelato for a cone or tub of ice-cream, and Barracuda for a sunset drink, pizza or a dish of the lake’s fish.
Malcesine, an idyllic day of castles and adventure
The road is just few metres from the lake, the mountain slopes covered with olive trees while the castle reflects in the water: Malcesine is always astounding. Visit the castle, stroll along the harbour and through the alleys leading down to the lake, or stop at one of the beaches. If unique outdoor experiences are what you are looking for, try a sailing trip with the Centro Velico Fraglia Vela Malcesine or take the cable car up the Monte Baldo: a rotating cabin takes you to 1,800 m altitude in 20 minutes. At the top, there is a lake-view plateau perfect for children to run about on, and two refuges where you can have lunch or a snack with warm apple strudel and a cup of coffee: the Baita dei Forti and La Capannina. Our suggestions for lunch in Malcesine: the Ristorante Alla Fassa with veranda surrounded by olive and palm trees and close to the lake shore or, if you're looking for something cheaper, the Salumeria Mosole, run by Signora Enrica. Just follow the smell of roast chicken to find it!
Soave, bigoli, wine glasses and castle
The town is full of medieval charm and famed for its excellent white wine Soave. It stands in magnificent solitude at the foot of a hill. There are three main attractions in Soave, experience them in this order: walk up to the castle (it can also be reached by car) and enjoy all it has to offer, especially the view from its towers. The next thing to do in Soave is to sit at a table of the Bigoleria Alla Rocca and try a plate of Bigoli, a type of thick spaghetti offered with a choice of over 80 sauces. The third and last thing to do is to pick up a few bottles of Soave at the Cantina Pieropan.
Lazise, the spirit of the Dolce Vita
Lazise has, without doubt, one of the most enjoyable walks along the lake, dotted with benches from which to enjoy one of the sunsets that the east coast of Lake Garda is famous for. The lake shore is lined with cafes and restaurants that come to life when the sky begins to turn pink: we recommend the Taverna da Oreste. Ideally, you should arrive in Lazise by boat, allowing you to instantly enter into the spirit of the town: the medieval walls are just a few steps away from the docking wharf and the beautiful little port. Beyond the walls are the narrow alleys of the historic centre, with shops open until late and a wide selection of restaurants. Try the Cozzeria alle Mura.
Torri del Benaco, the perfect sunset
Once you’ve arrived in Torri, preferably by boat to avoid traffic and parking difficulties, make a tour of the castle then immerse yourself in the lemon house, the roof of which is closed during the winter to protect the plants from the cold. Lake Guarda was close to the confines of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and due to its Mediterranean climate was its foremost supplier of citrus fruits. Try and remain in Torri until the evening when the sunset transforms the lake into a flow of liquid gold. If the weather is warm, enjoy a sunset dip, a long walk along the shore line, and then order an aperitif at Don Diego.
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